Aperture - In 1962, Czech French photographer Josef Koudelka began documenting the everyday lives of Europe’s Roma communities. Carrying only his equipment and a rucksack, Koudelka would spend the next decade moving between different Roma settlements and villages in then-Czechoslovakia, Romania, Hungary, France, and Spain. His resulting images offered an intimate glimpse into these largely marginalized communities, exploring themes of alienation and displacement.
Aperture - Carmen Winant, the guest editor of the latest issue of The PhotoBook Review, is an alchemist when it comes to books—her practice as an artist is one of creation and transformation, an Ouroborus in which printed material is both created and destroyed. In the following conversation, I am joined by my colleague and contributing editor Brendan Embser, who has worked closely with Winant on other projects for Aperture. We spoke to her by phone as this particular issue developed, to talk about how her thoughts about bookmaking have been informed by her deeply held commitment to feminism and a critical approach to the depiction of women via the photographic image.—Lesley A. Martin
Aperture - On Thursday, October 24, guests gathered at Aperture Gallery to celebrate the opening of The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion, curated by Antwaun Sargent. The exhibition presents an expanded view of the book, featuring works by forty groundbreaking contemporary photographers.
Aperture - Since its beginnings, photography has functioned in part as a vehicle for showing what is neither accessible nor visible to most of us. It also has the power to shed light on the things around us that are otherwise overlooked—from remote societies to elite fraternities, isolated places to objects so common we don’t even stop to look at them. From Daidō Moriyama to Susan Meiselas, Aperture and Magnum photographers have long demonstrated how photographs can reveal hidden things, places, and lives.
Aperture - To celebrate the launch of Aperture’s The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion and Burberry’s newly released Monogram puffer collection, three New Black Vanguard photographers— Arielle Bobb-Willis, Micaiah Carter, and Renell Medrano—were commissioned to make images for a social-media campaign. In their alluring images, the artists’ unique photographic styles mix with Burberry’s new aesthetic to provide a modern look at identity and fashion. The images reveal how each photographer has used their cameras to celebrate community and rethink notions of beauty and dress in our culture. Central to the power of these images are the conversations they open up about diversity and representation in fashion, art, and society. Carter’s studio portraits of youth, Medrano’s pictures of family, and Bobb-Willis’s street scenes draw on such genres as portraiture and documentary, conceptual and still-life photography, to bring a whole new set of references and possibilities to the fashion photograph. These artists are part of a global movement of Black artists who are working alongside fashion houses, like Burberry, to construct vibrant portraits that present fresh perspectives on the medium of photography, youth culture, and the notions of power and belonging.
Aperture - The exhibition, on view through October 15, showcases Albert Halaban’s photographs of murals depicting imperiled birds, each loosely based on the watercolors of John James Audubon, the pioneering nineteenth-century ornithologist. The murals, sited in and around the neighborhoods of Harlem and Washington Heights, where John James Audubon lived and worked, were created by a spectrum of artists—from fine-art painters to graffiti artists—and are the result of a collaboration between the National Audubon Society and Gitler &_____.